Domaine Lafage - Collioure Arqueta 2020

Lafage works with the local co-op to produce this wine, which spends winters there before being moved to demi-muids at the winery. The 2017 Arqueta is a medium to full-bodied blend of 45% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 25% Carignan, boasting showy blueberry and cherry fruit and a hint of the brininess for which the Collioure appellation is known. Overall, it's firm, fresh and elegant, but remember, it has six months or so of time in older demi-muids ahead of it.

The dynamic Jean Marc Lafage has rapidly expanded his holdings and production in the past decade, since he began working with American importer Eric Solomon. There's a huge, state-of-the-art winery and a seemingly endless number of cuvées to taste through. The white wine-making tends to be highly reductive, although a couple of cuvées are barrel fermented. Even if I'm slightly less enthusiastic than the previous WA reviewer about some of the entry-level wines, there are still many screaming values in the lineup (both white and red, but more red). At the high end, the reds are impressive, showing ample concentration and well-managed tannins. With the generally high alcohol levels, I've been conservative with my drinking windows, not wanting to push them out too far, but I did taste the terrific 2005 Les Onze Terrasses (albeit from magnum), and it was still drinking well, so these wines may well last longer than I've projected. Clearly, I need to acquire more data points!