Nyhet
Guigal - Saint-Joseph Vignes de L'Hospice 2018
Rött vin från Rhône« E. Guigal är en av de mest anmärkningsvärda vinproducenterna i Rhônedalen. Det grundades 1946 av Etienne Guigal i Ampuis – där huvudkontoret finns kvar än i dag – på Rhônes västra strand, ett stenkast från de berömda solstekta sluttningarna av Côte Rôtie, och Guigals flaggskeppsviner, de berömda 'LaLaLa-viner': La Landonne, La Mouline och La Turque. »
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Druvor
Syrah
Tasting note
After 30 months in oak, the 2018 Saint-Joseph Vignes de l'Hospice has emerged into bottle as one sexy bacon-scented beast. Add black olives and black cherries, and this is one pretty compelling wine, in a rich, savory style. Full-bodied and concentrated, it finishes silky and long, with a decade or more of evolution ahead of it.
It was the start of the last full day of my 2021 Rhône trip when I pulled into the parking lot at Guigal around 9:30 a.m. Reminder: Always dress warmly when tasting at Guigal, because the cellars are a few degrees cooler than average! The cool temperatures help inhibit the growth of any spoilage organisms during the extended élevage these wines receive.
While the stars of the cellars are the single-vineyard wines from Côte-Rôtie, the Guigal family takes pride in all of the wines they produce, and one reliable indicator of the quality of a Southern Rhône vintage is the quality and volume produced of the négoce Côtes du Rhône, which is typically around 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre. The 2018 is charming and fruit-forward, while the 2019 looks to be slightly more concentrated. The family's relationships in Gigondas go back before the elevation of that appellation to cru status in 1971, so that is another reliable southern offering from the négociant side of the business.
In the Northern Rhône, the large-scale bottlings from Condrieu and Côte-Rôtie are consistent performers and widely distributed. As they will be many consumers' introduction to these appellations, it's important they remain of high quality, vintage after vintage. The so-called La Las really require no introduction, except to mention that a new La La is being contemplated—a steep, two-hectare parcel within the Fongeant lieu-dit was vinified separately in 2019 and 2020. I was able to taste some impressive barrel samples, but as those wines will not be bottled separately, I've not scored them or added them to the database. Philippe Guigal was hopeful that the new wine—tentatively named La Renarde—would be ready to make a formal debut beginning with the 2022 vintage.
Value-oriented consumers who still want a taste of Northern Rhône Syrah will want to focus on the family's négoce bottlings from Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph. While the Crozes is normally a fruit-forward, easy-drinking wine, the 2019 version boasts a bit more concentration than usual, while the 2018 and 2019 St-Joes both deliver ripe fruit and hints of granitic austerity. The Lieu-Dit Saint-Joseph and Vignes de l'Hospice bottlings ratchet up the intensity of both oak and terroir, but prices for those are rising rapidly, as consumers have caught on to the value they represent.
As a side note, my tastings at Guigal's cellars in Ampuis included wines from the family's estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Château de Nalys, but I've chosen to include those reviews in my Southern Rhône coverage, slated to appear in the next few weeks.
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Robert Parker Wine Advocate
Jeb Dunnuck om Guigal
This reference point estate was created in 1946 by Etienne Guigal and has been one of the world’s greatest wine estates for over seven decades now. Today, it’s Etienne’s son, Marcel Guigal, and his son Philippe, who continue to keep Domaine Guigal at the leading edge of the appellation. As I’ve written in the past, one of my highlights tasting each year is with this team, which now also includes Jacques Desvernois, who was previously at Paul Jaboulet Aîné.
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As normal, due to the long élevage of most cuvées, we taste through four vintages of each of the main releases. The top Côte Rôties see (and have always seen) a full four years in new French oak, and even their larger production Southern Rhônes see extended time in oak. While a lot is said about the extended élevage in new oak, I don’t know anyone who tastes mature examples of these wines regularly who has any doubts about the genius here.
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In short, these single vineyard Côte Rôties and Hermitages are some of the greatest wines money can buy. Quickly looking at the releases here, there are two main Saint Josephs, the Vignes des Hospice and the Lieu-dit Saint Joseph. The Saint Joseph Vignes des Hospices comes all from the incredibly steep (and picturesque) vineyard perched just above the town of Tournon. This is a cooler, mostly east-facing vineyard of pure granite soils (it shows similarities with the Les Bessards lieu-dit just across the river) and harvest here always lags other nearby sites by 5-7 days. I always find a Hermitage-like character in this wine and it ages beautifully.
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The Saint Joseph Lieu-Dit Saint Joseph comes from a warmer, south-facing vineyard that the appellation takes its name. This is one of the top terroirs in the region and this cuvée is always a more broad, opulent wine that doesn’t have the tannic backbone of the Vignes des Hospice yet offers more upfront appeal.
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As to the Côte Rôtie, there are five releases. The Brune et Blonde can be thought of as the entry-level cuvée and comes from a mix of vineyards, most of which are estate, yet there is some purchased fruit. It drinks well on release and has a solid 15-20 years of longevity in top vintages. A smaller production release, the Côte Rôtie Château d’Ampuis is named after the Château d’Ampuis estate (which lies in the town of Ampuis, right up along the Rhône River, and was purchased by the Guigals in 1995) and is a blend of their top seven estate vineyards, including the La Garde, Le Clos, Grande-Plantee, Pommiere, Pavillon, Le Moulin, and La Viria lieux-dits. It sees a full four years in new French oak and is handled exactly like the single vineyard releases. There are roughly 2,500 cases of this produced, and in top years, it’s quality can be just as high as the single vineyard releases, making it a terrific value. There are only three (now anyways) single vineyards that are affectionally labeled “La Las,” the La Mouline, La Turque, and La Landonne.
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First made in 1966, the La Mouline comes from a parcel in the Côte Blonde and is the warmest, earliest site of the single vineyards. It includes some of the oldest vines of the estate, sees upwards of 10% co-fermented Viognier, see only pump-overs during fermentation, and has always spent four years in new French oak.
The La Mouline is always the most approachable of the single vineyard releases and is also the earliest maturing. Nevertheless, top vintages can easily keep for 30 years.
The Côte Rotie La Turque was first made in 1985 and comes from a steep parcel in the Côte Brune. It sees slightly less Viognier than the La Mouline and is a co-fermented blend of 93% Syrah and 7% Viognier. It sees a more aggressive punch-down regime during fermentation and spends 48 months in new French oak.
The La Turque always splits the difference between the La Mouline and La Landonne stylistically and shows slightly more minerality and structure than the La Mouline, yet not quite the austerity and structure found in the La Landonne. It normally needs 10-15 years of bottle age to show its true self. Lastly, the Côte Rotie La Landonne comes from a great lieu-dit in the Côte Brune side of the appellation. It is always 100% Syrah and is made using a cap immersion technique for fermentation. This cuvée was first made in 1978 and for each vintage has spent 48 months in new French oak.
The La Landonne is always the most backward, structured, age-worthy of the lineup, and needs the most bottle age to hit maturity. It is also, however, the most consistent in terms of quality of the three single vineyards.
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As to the Hermitage releases, there are three cuvées, a base Hermitage and a Hermitage Ex-Voto in both red and white. Guigals purchased their primary holdings in Hermitage from Jean-Louis Grippat (now 90-year-old Marsanne vines in the Les Murets lieu-dit) and Domaine De Vallouit (mostly in the Greffieux lieu-dit) in 2001. They also gained parcels in the lieu-dit Saint Joseph and Vignes de Hospice with the Grippat purchase. Today, they have parcels in Le Méal, Beaumes, Dionnieres, and Les Bessards. The entry-level Hermitage sees three years in 50% new French oak. They release a tiny production cuvée called Ex-Voto only in top vintages, and the red sees the same four years in French oak as the single vineyard Côte Rôties. The Ex-Voto Blanc is primarily Marsanne blended with 10% Roussanne, from Les Murets (90%) and l’Hermite (10%) lieux-dits, aged 30 months in new French oak. It sees primary and malolactic fermentation in barrel and is bottled unfined and unfiltered. This is a rich, powerful Hermitage Blanc that has plenty of toastiness in its youth and starts to drink brilliantly with 4-5 years of bottle age. This was a massive tasting, as usual, and I’ve listed the wines in the order we went through them.
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