Hartford Court- Jennifer's Chardonnay 2019

Druvor

Chardonnay

Tasting note

The 2019 Chardonnay Jennifer’s Vineyard, from Wente selection vines planted in 2005, was barrel fermented and matured in 30% new French oak for 13 months. The nose offers delicate, classy dark spices with a core of white peaches and touches of roasted almonds and honey. The medium-bodied palate is dynamic, beginning with broad honeyed flavors before its tangy acidity brings all that ripe fruit into focus on the very long, stony finish. 255 cases were made.

I visited Hartford Court in the spring of 2022 to taste the lineup of 2019s with Don Hartford; his daughter Haily, who is president and co-owner; Jeff Stewart, winemaker and general manager; and winemaker Tiaan Lordan. Founded in 1994, Hartford Court has focused on single-vineyard cuvées—they currently produce over 40 SKUs, the vast majority of them from single sites. "Back in 1994, there were only a handful of wineries in California who were focusing on site-designated Pinot Noir," Don remembered. "I was on the lookout for single-vineyard properties from the start. That terroir idea—we dreamed it and now it's a reality. We planted most of the vineyards in our portfolio." Don recalled the time spent thinking about the land, breaking down and studying blocks in search of the most expressive sites with "that wow factor, that speechless quality." His voice breaks as he thinks back on his long career. "When we do these tastings, it confirms that we weren't crazy." Hartford Court has maintained a consistent style over the years: Chardonnays undergo 100% malolactic conversion and are bottled without fining or filtration. Pinot Noirs are mostly destemmed. Single-vineyard cuvées are matured for around 15 months in barrel and an additional year in bottle before release. The ripe, fruit-focused style here paired exceptionally well with the 2019 vintage. The wines are particularly energetic, flavorful and approachable, with the balance to allow for graceful development in the cellar. "The 2019s gave us what 2018 did, with a little more verve and liveliness," Don said. "I think they will age well. The 2018s I see as 10- to 15-year wines and the 2019s are 15- to 20-year wines." Currently, an impressive 70% of production comes from estate fruit, which makes up the single-vineyard wines, while 30% of grapes are purchased for use in the larger appellation cuvées. Hartford Court also produces wines from the Sta. Rita Hills and Oregon, which are made at the winery in Sonoma. They began producing sparkling wines in 2014, including a blanc de blancs, blanc de noir and a non-vintage; the first of these will be disgorged in 2023.

Robert Parker Wine Advocate