Tenuta dell'Ornellaia - Ornellaia 2021

Robert Parker Wine Advocate

The Ornellaia 2021 Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia offers an extra layer of richness, generosity and plushness that shapes a very open-knit and exuberant Tuscan red. The blend is 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot. You feel the fruit and oak weight of the wine, the extract and the 15% alcohol content. All of these elements come together to big effect. From that power, you get black cherry, dark fruit, sweet spice and barbecue smoke. The fruit tannins are young, and this edition of Ornellaia proves worthy for medium or long-term drinking, especially as it softens up with more bottle age.

Here's a bit of news I am especially happy to report: between the sister estates Ornellaia and Masseto, bottle weight has been reduced by 82 tons in two years. The goal is to reduce an additional 12 tons before next year. For example, the bottle for the 2021 Masseto reviewed here was reduced by 150 grams to its current weight of 600 grams. This is a theme I have been following carefully (https://www.robertparker.com/wines/u8L84HES4Nid48LDw), because if a brand as important as Masseto takes a leadership stand on environmentally unfriendly glass bottles, other estates will surely follow.

This is a time of enormous change for Ornellaia and Masseto. Estate Director Axel Heinz left his position in March 2023 after nearly two decades in Bolgheri. The German-born, Bordeaux-trained winemaker is currently employed at Château Lascombes in Margaux. Axel joined the Tuscan estate in 2005 and oversaw the development of Ornellaia and Masseto as distinct brands, each with their own dedicated winery today. Lamberto Frescobaldi is president of the group today. Former Ornellaia CEO Giovanni Geddes, the visionary who brought Masseto to La Place de Bordeaux, announced his retirement in 2023.

Starting January 1, 2024, a new team was put into place. Marco Balsimelli is charged with production (returning home to Italy from Bordeaux, where he spent 17 years with Laboratoire Oenologique Boissenot) and Giuliano Tarchi is vineyard manager (for both Ornellaia and Masseto). Gaia Cinnirella is winemaker for Masseto, and the Ornellaia winemaker is Denise Cosentino (she replaces outgoing Olga Fusari).

The Ornellaia Bianco became a Bolgheri Bianco DOC wine starting in the 2021 vintage. I have previously reviewed that vintage, and you will find my note published in our database.

Jane Anson - Inside Bordeaux

Ian D'Agata Wine Review

Gismondi on Wine

Climate change is altering Ornellaia in subtle ways. The merlot has been reduced, given its propensity to ripen earlier due to a warming planet, robbing the mix of some freshness. In 2021, the blend is 53/25/15/7 cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, and petit verdot, although the wine still clocks in at a hefty 15 percent alcohol. Similar to the south Okanagan, Bolgheri copes with its inherent richness, balancing it with the scent of wild Mediterranean countryside that permeates the underside of this expressive Super Tuscan. Look for rich black and blue fruits and a rush of fine grained tannin that adds to the wine's muscular undertones. Still, there is freshness of fruit and acidity, pitching a balance, as previously mentioned, that lets you forget the alcohol. This will age gracefully for 15 to 20 years. Technically, the wine is fermented in stainless steel and concrete tanks. After a 15 day maceration, it is pressed off into mainly oak barrels, 70% new and 30% used once. It remains in barriques for about 18 months. After the first 12 months of maturation, the wine is assembled and then returned to barriques for an additional six months. Post-bottling, it is aged a further 12 months before release. (Anthony Gismondi).

Wine Enthusiast

A wine that feels like walking into an Italian bar just as the morning is getting started, the steam and heat of the Marzocco, the espresso grinding, the chocolate and jam oozing out of the fresh pastry, a hint of perfume and aftershave from everyone loitering before heading to the office. More welcoming than past Ornellaia—the generosity of spirit is felt.

James Suckling

The finesse and depth to this is really impressive, showing brightness and super-integrated, polished and balanced tannins that go on for minutes. Fresh herbs, cherries, currants and a hint of vanilla. Long, almost endless finish. Drink after 2028, but already gorgeous.