Tyson Stelzer

A pinot noir of elegance and refinement that encompasses a core of deep complexity, founded on black cherry and blackberry fruit, even a shadow of cassis, rippling with layers of exotic spice. From the family-owned estate's oldest vines planted from 1980, this is a wine of silky, seductive structure, yet confidently enduring tannins, filling a palate of impeccable line and undeviating length. A brilliant, seductive and delightful Ata Rangi.

Bob Campbell

Dense, complex pinot noir in a typical Ata Rangi style, with a nice mix of fruit and savoury characters. Dark-fleshed plum, black cherry with a suggestion of floral, mixed spice and sweet herbs. Spectacular wine with plenty of power and an incredibly lengthy finish. More accessible than the previous vintage was at this stage but showing great cellaring potential. The best Ata Rangi pinot noir I've tasted.

James Suckling

As ever this has an extra dimension and remains the high watermark for New Zealand pinot noir to be measured against. How do they do it: complete and uncompromised dedication to the cause, combined with an early play to make the most of the available land in a young region, as well as the ability to attract talented and dedicated people such as winemaker Helen Masters to the cause. Already entrancingly complex, the wine has a brambly array of cherry and summer berry fruits in addition to blueberries, some spicy saffron and earthy nuances. It's totally composed and still able to deliver a sense of aromatic purity amid web-like complexity. As you swoon into the first mouthful, it takes total control and is plush and layered with an air of playful luxury. The center billows soft and deceptively airy, finishing in a run of succulent, fresh and satisfying tannins that leave you breathless. Drink now to 2025+ .

The Wine Front

Decanter Magazine

An open, easy to approach wine despite having a focussed core of intense fruit. The mouthcoating tannins have a fine pinprick-like texture and, in combination with succulent acidity, create a finely drawn-out conclusion. This is a very relaxed wine with a savoury expression that lingers on the medium-length finish.

Robert Parker Wine Advocate

Still rather firm in texture, the 2014 Pinot Noir offers up leafy, tomato-like notes that are nicely balanced by black cherries and earth. It's medium to full-bodied, then turns velvety on the long finish, with at least another decade of life ahead of it.

Just days before my visit, Helen Masters was named New Zealand Winemaker of the Year by Gourmet Traveller Wine, which just shows I'm not alone in my admiration for her remarkable achievements at Ata Rangi. While Pinot Noir is the unchallenged focus here, Masters excels with the other varieties as well, consistently turning out an innovative Sauvignon Blanc (there's a skin-contact component for added texture); a mouth-filling Pinot Gris; a crisp, aged Riesling; and terrific Chardonnay. With founder Clive Paton, we tasted through mini verticals of the estate and McCrone Vineyard Pinot Noirs from 2013 - 2017. They're planted to similar clones, but there's a clay lens running through the McCrone Vineyard, which mitigates hydric stress and should (in theory) lead to smoother tannins. As the estate vines are older, that's another item to factor into the differences between the two bottlings. I generally had a slight preference for the estate Pinot Noir, although both were excellent in this stretch of vintages and faithfully reflect the vintage conditions.