Bryant Family Vineyard - Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

Druva

Tasting note

Bryant's 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, from the estate vineyard on Pritchard Hill, boasts mixed red and black cherries so seamlessly intermixed that it's hard to pick them apart, all framed by seductive notes of caramel and cedar and freshened just enough by hints of mint. All Cabernet Sauvignon, matured in 72% new French oak, it's full-bodied and expansive on the palate, with a sturdy feel and slightly coarse grain to the tannins on the lingering finish.

Sadly, founder Don Bryant—who was in hospice care—died just days after my late February visit to his Pritchard Hill estate. His wife, Bettina, was named president in 2014 and has been managing the business with the capable assistance of winemaker Kathryn "KK" Carothers, a Cornell alumna whose history with the property goes back to an internship in 2012. Both of them graciously poured the 2021 and 2022 vintages of their red wines, plus a few library selections. 

The two women seem remarkably connected in their ability to converse about the wines emerging from this gem of a winery overlooking Lake Hennessey. "As Don always said, 'It's all about the wine'," said Bettina. Or, as Carothers put it, "There's no pressure to make lots of wine, just the best quality."

There are three red wines produced. The Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced exclusively from the 13-acre vineyard at the Pritchard Hill site. Bettina is a red blend sourced from David Abreu's vineyards at Madrona (westside Saint Helena) and Las Posadas (Howell Mountain). DB4 is basically a second wine, composed of selected lots that didn't make the previous two wines. The 2021s, which I reviewed prior to bottling in 2024, have turned out predictably well, but the 2022s aren't far behind.

Carothers described the 2022 vintage as, "A lesson in patience… At least here, we have to recognize not to get overzealous [and pick too early]." The team pre-irrigated beginning five days prior to the September heat wave, with some parcels being picked before, during and after the hot weather, "just based on how the vines were looking," said Carothers. 

"Starting in 2019, we pruned to have fewer buds. I think that helped us in 2022. The vines could support the fruit through the heat," said Carothers. One consequence of that weather event is that they've recently added another 400,000-gallon water tank. "We should be set for water," she said.

The 2022 vintage marks the winery's 30th—the first was 1992, and there was no 2020 produced. To celebrate the anniversary, we tasted the 1996, 2006 and 2016 vintages—all from magnum. By sampling those, we covered the tenures of several notable winemakers: Helen Turley (1996), Mark Aubert (2006) and Marc Gagnon (2016). As readers can see from the reviews, all were drinking beautifully. If readers are willing to gamble a bit on provenance, back vintages are sometimes available for less than current releases, which are sold primarily through the mailing list.

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Robert Parker Wine Advocate

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