Domaine de la Vougeraie - Nuits-Saint-Georges 1. Cru Les Damodes 2016

Vinerna från Nuits-Saint-Géorges har varit kända sedan medeltiden och serverades vid det franska hovet. Ludvig den 14: e, Solkungen själv, drack det ofta och tyckte att vinerna från Nuits hade en helande effekt. Vinodlingarna i Nuits-Saint-Georges är uppdelade i två delar - en på vardera sidan av byn. Här finns inga Grand Cru's men några mycket eftertraktade 1. Cru-fält. En av dem är det 1. Cru-marken "Les Damodes", beläget i en sluttning med östlig exponering på dålig kalkstenjord, i den norra delen som gränsar till närliggande appell Vosne-Romanée. Vougeraie's Les Damodes har klassiska Nuits-Saint-George-funktioner, men eftersom marken ligger i Vosne Romanée-änden av byn har vinet också en del finess som är förknippad med Vosne. Djupröd med lila kant. Doften är nästan eterisk med toner av rosor, krydda och mineralitet. Les Damodes är ett superraffinerat men också saftigt vin med smaker av mörkröda körsbär, kryddor och lakrits. Utmärkt vikt, mörk frukt och en kryddig mineralfinish. Vinet kan avnjutas tidigt men kan lagras i några år för mer sensuell rundhet och elegans.

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The 2016 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Damodes contains 80% whole bunch fruit and was one of the last to finish its malo (it had been racked three weeks earlier). The nose is clean and fresh, nicely focused with fine delineation. The palate has a pastille-like purity on the entry, supple tannin, quite powerful but with wonderful finesse and focus toward the finish. This is a clear step up from the Clos de Thorey for me. Superb.

The big news earlier this year was winemaker Pierre Vincent’s move from Domaine de la Vougeraie to Domaine Leflaive. When key personnel transfer to another company, then it is bound to cause concern about the continued success. Pierre had been instrumental in improving the wines at Vougeraie over his 11-year tenure. Previously, the wines had been rather overextracted and Pierre imbued them with more terroir expression, greater restraint and more class. It was no surprise that Leflaive snapped him up. Winemakers come and go, but the vines stay the same. When I asked about who was taking Pierre’s place, I was informed that rather than highlighting a single person, they would prefer to emphasize that there is a winemaking team, obligatory when you have such a diaspora of vineyards the length and breadth of the region. 

“We used more whole bunches to gain more complexity,” François, one of their winemaking team told me and, indeed, examining the list of wines I can see that several cuvées include 100% whole bunch, even the entry-level "Terres de Famille" red includes 30%. “We found this gave more balance in the reds. We had good results [using whole bunch] with the 2015 and so tried to do the same with 2016. The yields were low and the concentration of the grapes was good. We lost 55% of the production because of frost and lost our Beaune Grèves and Beaune Clos du Roi entirely, although Les Damodes, Le Petit Noizon and Les Clos Blanc did not suffer damage. We started the picking on 15 September with the whites with the Les Clos Blanc. We did a small pigéage. I did not want a brutal extraction, so I used lower fermentation temperatures. The wines are all matured using one-third new, one-third one-year and one-third two-year oak, racked from barrel by barrel, from new into used barrels. I found that the malolactic fermentation in 2016 was longer than in 2015. The wines were racked just before harvest, and I will bottle them a little later in April 2018 rather than end February.” 

With such a wide array of propitious parcels scattered all across the Côte d'Or there is always bound to be a clutch of great wines from Domaine de la Vougeraie. Add into the mix the frost and mildew and ineluctably you will get a lot of variation in quality, and that is the case here. There are crus that I felt were discombobulated by the growing season and only just managed to stumble across the finish line, others that are quite brilliant, both white and red. I will leave readers to peruse the reviews. Buy carefully, and you might have a great and, dare I say, well-priced wine on your hands.

Robert Parker Wine Advocate