Domaine de la Vougeraie - Vougeot 1.Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot 2013 [eko]
Vitt vin från Bourgogne FrankrikeDomänen är den största organiska och biodynamiska domänen i Bourgogne med ca. 40 hektar av några av Bourgognes mest eftertraktade vingårdar, inklusive 9 Grand Cru och 4 monopol-vingårdar.
| Per flaska: | Per låda: | |
| Pris |
1299kr
|
7794kr
|
Antal flaskor per låda: 6
| Distrikt | Bourgogne |
| Druvor | Chardonnay |
| Årgång | 2013 |
| Procucenter | Domaine de la Vougeraie |
| Artikelnr | La Vougeraie 118 |
| Beställningssortiment | |
| Lagerstatus | |
| Fraktkostnad | 169:- |
| Avnjutes mellan | 2022 - 2032 |
|
Fyllighet |
Fruktsyra |
Sötma |
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Druvor
Chardonnay
Tasting note
'I remember my introduction to Domaine de la Vougeraie well. It was London, a rather salubrious tasting that served as an introductionof this new name to the Burgundy firmament to wine journalists and the odd nerd writing on a new-fangled medium called theInternet. I tasted the wines and whilst the array of premier and grand cru vineyards was impressive, the wines were less so. They weretoo oaky. As a consequence, they felt a little humdrum, a bit predictable, too earnest and desperate to please. A couple of journalistswaxed lyrical, but they left me cold.
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Come their crop of 2014s and Domaine de la Vougeraie has almost discretely become a major player in top quality, occasionallyprofound Burgundy wine. With winemaker Pierre Vincent, there was a significant turnaround in style and quality -- the winesdiscovering terroir expression, nuance and elegance, poise and complexity. I’ve lost count the number of times their wines havetriumphed in blind tastings and yet still, I don’t think this domaine receives the credit that is due. Not artisan enough maybe? As partof Jean-Claude Boisset’s portfolio, that’s him on the official website attired in a dashing velvet navy tuxedo, it is almost dichotomous tothe romantic notion of a vigneron with clay under his fingernails, permanently dressed in a tatty old cardigan handed down from hisgreat grandfather. However, it should be what is in the glass that counts. Pierre Vincent is an über-talented winemaker who now hasone of the most comprehensive and enviable ranges of white and red Burgundy wines to “play” with. In fact, each year there are oneor two more purchases and 2014 is no different, as Pierre introduced a couple of new whites courtesy of acquisition from VincentGirardin.
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“The spring was perfect: good temperatures and sunny. The rain arrived in July and there was a lot of rain in August, the temperaturearound 20 to 25 degrees Celsius but with a lot of humidity. September was perfect. You just had a little problem with suzukii fruit fly,especially in the lower vineyards, especially in Gevrey-Chambertin around “La Justice” and in Beaune after the hailstorm. I used a lot ofwhole cluster, not so much in the Côte de Beaun,e but more in Côte de Nuits, a minimum of 30% to 60% for the Grand Crus. For me, itmakes the wine more complex and lends it more body. As we have worked with biodynamics for 15 years I have found the balance isgood. We started the harvest on September 10 with whites and finished on September 20 with the reds, using a sorting table where10% to 15% grapes were discarded.”
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“It was a good vintage more for the Côte de Nuits than the Côte de Beaune,” he opined, though I might not agree when consideringthe surfeit of exceptional whites this year. “The yield for the Côte de Beaune appéllations was very low at around ten hectoliters perhectare and there was up to 80% to 90% damaged vines, especially around Beaune Grèves. In Pommard it was less difficult, thoughwe are still talking about a loss of between 50% to 60%. Elsewhere the quality was good and around Puligny, it was very good. Wereached around 12 degrees natural alcohol with good pH levels, around 3.10 for the whites after alcoholic fermentation and a pH of 3.5for the reds. We did just 0.3 [alcoholic] degrees chapalitization at the end of alcoholic fermentation to extend the maceration. Thewhites are aged in between 20% and 30% new French oak. Some wines were bottled the last week in July, the rest next year.”
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Overall, there is an enticing set of 2014s from Domaine de la Vougeraie, the whites bolstered by those new additions and no longer a“sideline” to the reds. The quality here peaks with the Grand Crus, in particular a wonderful Corton-Charlemagne en Charlemagne anda convincing Bâtard-Montrachet, although this address was one of the few where I felt the Chevalier-Montrachet did not quite fire on allcylinders, irrespective that this is their debut release. The reds are very fine, although I felt that the hail impacted around Beaune anddenudes them of the fruit they might otherwise have had. There was just something a little…vacant…about one or two labels. My pickwould be an excellent Nuits Saint Georges Clos de Thorey, probably the best value here, but if you can trade up, the Charmes-Chambertin will be utterly seductive once in bottle. Again, it was not a consistent run through exemplary wines and paradoxically Iconsider that as no bad thing. Whereas the domaine would have once tried to paper over deficiencies, I get the feeling that the winesare allowed, encouraged to reflect both the strong and weaker facets of the growing season. As a consequence, Domaine de laVougeraie is becoming an ever-increasing “interesting” grower that pursues terroir expression rather than an in-house style. Thatshould be applauded. I cannot wait to taste the 2015s next year because blessed with this panoply of premier and grand crus, it shouldhave played straight into their hands.'
Robert Parker Wine Advocate
Domänen är den största organiska och biodynamiska domänen i Bourgogne med ca. 40 hektar av några av Bourgognes mest eftertraktade vingårdar, inklusive 9 Grand Cru och 4 monopolfält. En kort berättelse, men redan en legend Många domäner i Bourgogne har funnits under samma familj i århundraden. Domaine de la Vougeraie är annorlunda - i stället för vingårdar som överlämnats genom generationer från far till son, är Vougeraie en anmärkningsvärd samling vinlotter som förvärvats genom strategiska...
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