Müller-Catoir - Bürgergarten "Im Breumel" Riesling Grosses Gewächs 2023
Vitt vin från Pfalz Tyskland« Dry white wines from Müller-Catoir continues to be some of the best from Germany » - James Suckling
| Per flaska: | Per låda: | |
| Pris |
599kr
|
3594kr
|
| Distrikt | Pfalz |
| Druvor | Riesling |
| Årgång | 2016 |
| Procucenter | Müller-Catoir |
| Artikelnr | MC 123 |
| Beställningssortiment | |
| Lagerstatus | |
| Fraktkostnad | 169:- |
| Avnjutes mellan | 2024 - 2034 |
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Fyllighet |
Fruktsyra |
Sötma |
Här redovisar och presenterar vi kända vinskribenters utlåtande om specifika viner. Utöver dessa lägger vi in en egen kommentar när vi har provat samma vin.
Druvor
Riesling
Tasting note
White-golden in color, pure, fine, deep and intense on the palate, the Riesling Bürgergarten is intense, concentrated and generous on the nose. The palate is pure, very intense and ripe as well as powerful but refined and concentrated. Very elegant and salty, with grip and tension.
A few days before Christmas, Martin Franzen showed me a great lineup of Müller-Catoir's 2017s and 2018s, which demonstrated why Müller-Catoir is one of the outstanding wine producers along the Mittelhardt. The domain cultivates a total of 21 hectares, predominantly in Neustadt, of which 80% to 90% are located in classified Grosse Lage (grands crus) vineyards. About 4.5 hectares are in the replanted Vogelsang, a steep, terraced vineyard on Muschelkalk limestone that they aim to awaken from a deep slumber—together with Steffen and Sophia Christmann, who own another third of the seven-hectare vineyard that both producers aim to classify as grand cru in a couple of years.
Franzen argues that the organic farming since 2009 causes more deep, precise and salty, terroir-driven wines, which were not produced here before. "The vines have deeper roots now, are better balanced and, thus, also protected; the vegetative growth is reduced and so is the potential alcohol level when it comes to the harvest." However, odium remains a serious problem, but Franzen is fascinated to see the growing plants's defenses.
Since 2017, the main harvest of Riesling has already been finished in September, even in 2019 when the flowering was two weeks later than in 2018. "Due to several heatwaves, though, we were ready again in September," says Franzen, who underlines that each single grape is still harvested by hand. The grapes are processed quickly and without any maceration time, and the must is fermented with selected yeasts predominantly but also in used 500-liter oak barrels when it comes to the single-vineyard wines. The aging on the lees isn't exceptionally long (until February) because the wines have to be bottled in May when Franzen needs his team in the vineyard.
The resulting wines are bone dry (at least much drier than in the earlier days): cool and fresh yet intense and elegant. The GG "Im "Breumel" has a deep, dense, very complex and powerful performance with lingering salinity and very fine tannins.
Robert Parker Wine Advocate
TASTING NOTE
The age-worthy Riesling wines from this prime section of the Haardt Bürgergarten are characterised by the optimal balance between a concentrated Riesling fruit, lingering minerality, a delicate elegance and an elaborately interwoven, long finish - Riesling to perfection.
AWARDS
- 2023: James Suckling: 99/100 "The enveloping nose is a cornucopia of stone and citrus fruit of all colors, plus banana and Asian pear aromas. This is an elegant and filigreed masterpiece of Pfalz in the form of dry riesling. So concentrated yet so delicate and precise on the medium-bodied palate, this is a joy to behold. And then comes the incredibly long, stony finish that sings as very few dry white wines in the world do. From organically grown grapes. Drink from release." | Lobenberg: 97-98+/100 "In direct comparison to the Erste Lage, the nose already radiates more density. Even more depth and concentration. Although this is the highest parcel in the vineyard, the yellow-fruity spice comes through so wonderfully here. At a very young stage, this seems almost a little more fruit-forward and accessible. Radiating great elegance and composure. Flint and also a smoky component. White fruit, some apple blossom, quince, green pear. The interplay continues on the palate. Great spiciness, yellow fruit, all in perfect harmony but with thrust and a salty texture. The length is really impressive. What power! Zero fat, but simply enormous density, everything is superbly finely interwoven. Doesn't really end at all, the mineral tension goes on forever. Enormous depth and complexity. The acidity is there, but it is round and juicy. A grandiose, harmoniously fine but also profound Palatinate GG. Great!”
- 2022: James Suckling: 97/100 "Deep nose of fully ripe peaches, orange blossom and dried flowers. Very concentrated and no less precise, it is the astonishing elegance of this wine that pulls you back again and again. Super-long finish that’s tightly wound and extremely subtle." | Weinwisser: 18/20 "The Bürgergarten "Im Breumel" 2022 initially seems sweet on the surface, almost a bit simple, with limited depth and breadth in the smell. In the mouth it shows a good, racy structure, is very smooth and clear, with excellent fruitiness and fullness. Good length and depth at 12.5% ABV. Nice, not too complicated and yet sophisticated." (2024–2034)
- 2021: James Suckling: 98/100 (TOP 100 WINES OF GERMANY 2022) "Still extremely youthful, this 2021 riesling GG is going to take a while to come out of its shell. However, the combination of concentrated citrusy fruit and fresh herb finesse is already very apparent. Bone dry, but beautifully balanced and polished at the very long finish." | Lobenberg: 97-100/100 "Very elegant, cool and fine in 2021, radiant and crystalline. That's a really chic nose. And the mouth is always a miracle from these yellow sandstone layers anyway, because it has this subtle, finely dry saltiness on warm Rock dust, plus the creamy-soft fruit of the Palatinate. The bell-clear purism of the 2021 vintage is fascinating. A crackling saltiness spreads out on the tongue, creamy, dense, pushing from the insane minerality. The acidic vibration makes every Riesling fan cheer, what for an intoxicating freshness! Deep, resting, balanced. Nothing will topple this wine in the near future, it will only become finer and smoother in this focused, radiant way. One of the best GGs in the Palatinate this year, first row, great stuff." | Weinwisser: 17.5/20 (excellent): "Dense, sweetish-concentrated and powerful on the nose. A lot of fructose melting, not too broad, with focused fruit. In the mouth with wiry acidity, very clear and long with breed."
- 2020: James Suckling: 98/100 (TOP 100 WINES OF GERMANY 2021) "Although the intensity of this very youthful dry riesling’s bouquet knocks you back in your seat, the ripe white-peach, tangerine and passion-fruit aromas are accompanied by a slew of delicate, floral notes. Tightly focused with diamond brightness on the concentrated yet sleek palate, this ends in a finish of breathtaking purity. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold." | wein.plus: excellent (92 WP), top position! "Nutty and a touch of floral pomaceous and stone fruit scent with citrus notes, mineral hints and a hint of red berries. Ripe, firm, juicy fruit, fine acidity, some handle, herbal, delicate floral and again red berry aromas, clear minerality , again nutty notes in the background, certain depth, very good, firm, juicy finish with very light ethereal notes." | WEINWISSER (Giuseppe Lauria): 17/20 (excellent, with its own style) "A very beautiful, already drinkable composition with clear and typical Riesling fruit, with citrus, apple and apricot dominating." | FINE Riesling List 2020: selected as one of the best dry Grand Crus 2020
- 2019: James Suckling: 98/100 (TOP 100 WINES OF GERMANY 2020) "Like the first rosebud of the season that has fully colored, but is only just beginning to open up, this is full of promise. Densely packed with minerals and positive tannins that are neatly wrapped in creaminess from lees contact, this is locked into its own time frame. You really need to give it a lot of air for the mirabelle, nectarine and mandarin notes to emerge. Then there’s a stunning interplay of fruit and structure through the long, very complete finish. From organically grown grapes. Better after 2021." | Robert Parker: (92-93)/100 "The 2019 Bürgergarten "Im Breumel" Riesling GG is deep, clear and pure on the aromatic, elegant and mineral nose with its ripe and concentrated aromas of yellow stone fruit. Fullbodied, round and juicy on the silky-textured palate, this is an intense Im Bremen with stewed mirabelle aromas on the !nish. Very elegant and with fine tannins, this is a wine to keep.Tasted as a sample in April 2020." | WEINWISSER: 18/20 (great) | Eichelmann: "The dry part of the collection is once again clearly led by the Riesling "Im Breumel", the wine shows herbal, stony notes and clear yellow fruit in the bouquet, also has a lot of fruit on the palate, pineapple, green apple, lime, is powerful, salty-stimulating and sustainable." | Ronn Wiegand: 5/5 "Wonderful version of this GG bottling, the 2019 is a full bodied, supple wine with fine flavor (white peach, honeysuckle, lime, guava, pineapple), very good balance, and a lingering finish. Quite young; warrants several more years of aging."
- 2018: Lobenberg: 100/100 "Almost puristical, but highly intense, all on European fruit, no exoticism, fine extract sweetness, totally fermented but still with fine sweetness in the core. Very idiosyncratic in this purism, unique." | James Suckling: 97/100 "Very floral with pretty herbal undertones, ranging from coriander to dill to mint. The flowers range from jasmine to honeysuckle to almond blossom. Understated and elegant from the outset. The palate has a very chalky feel to the texture with overlapping, firm lines of acidity and dainty citrus fruit. Immaculately ironed-out edges and well-defined, linear crease. Drink now or hold." (Top 100 Wines of Germany 2019) | Robert Parker: 93+/100 "White-golden in color, pure, fine, deep and intense on the palate, the 2018 Bürgergarten "Im Breumel" GG is intense, concentrated and generous on the nose. The palate is pure, very intense and ripe as well as powerful but refined and concentrated. Very elegant and salty, with grip and tension." | RESTAURANT WINE® Issues #190-193: 5/5 stars "Exceptional GG: fleshy in texture, concentrated, and full bodied, this is refined in flavor (pear, guava, white peach, lime, pineapple), very well balanced, and full and long on the finish. Wonderful quality; warrants 5+ more years of aging. Organic. [2024-2028]"
- 2017: James Suckling: Stand back for the arrival of a giant! 98/100 | Weinwirtschaft "Weintest Großes Gewächs": A first-class vintage! 92/100 | Weinwisser: 17.5/20 (excellent) | restaurantwine (Ronn Wiegand): 5/5 stars - "Delicious GG Riesling from this single parcel. It is full bodied, both intense and fine in aroma/flavor (white peach, lime, honeysuckle, sage, honey), crisp and well balanced, and very persistent on the finish. Can be aged."
- 2016: James Suckling: 96/100 | Antonio Galloni: 93/100 | Best of riesling 2018: 92/100 | Restaurant wine (Ronn Wiegand): 5/5 stars | Finalist "Vinum Riesling-Champion 2018"
- 2015: Robert Parker: 95/100 | James Suckling: 95/100 "..has a finesse that makes it stand out in the strong field of the 2015 riesling GGs from the Pfalz. " | Riesling.de: 91/100 | Wine accompaniment at the Supperclub 2018 for "Pork Belly | Soybean | Pear"
- 2014: Robert Parker: 93+/100 | enos/ENO WorldWine: third place of Riesling-Challenge 2016 (5/5 stars "premium wine of international standing") | James Suckling: 94/100
- 2013: Robert Parker: 92/100
- 2012: Effilee, Riesling Challenge 2014, Top 10, 5/5 stars ("premium wine of international standing")
- 2009: Gault Millau/Eichelmann/WeinPlus, 92-94 points | Eno Worldwine, challenge "Großes Gewächs Germany 2009", winner of tasting ("dream wine!")
- 2008: Le Point „Best Riesling Pfalz“ | Winespectator, 94 points „highly recommended“
- 2007: Weinwelt, 95 Punkte „ranks among the best white wines of the world“ | Robert Parker 94/100
- 2005: Bunte Wine Award, first place „Best white wine Germany“
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