Bodega Exopto - El Espinal 2022
Rött vin från Rioja« De två sakerna som skiljer Exopto-vinerna från de flesta Riojas är deras fräschör och uttrycksfullhet. Vinerna från Bodega Exopto är gjorda av 10 hektar gamla vingårdar fördelade på 15 små lägen med olika jordsammansättningar, höjder, väderförhållanden och solorientering. »
Per flaska: | Per låda: | |
Pris |
449kr
|
2694kr
|
Distrikt | Rioja |
Druvor | Castets , Maturana Tinta |
Årgång | 2022 |
Procucenter | Bodegas Exopto |
Artikelnr | Exopto 103 |
Beställningssortiment | |
Lagerstatus | |
Fraktkostnad | 169:- |
Avnjutes mellan | 2024 - 2034 |
Fyllighet |
Fruktsyra |
Strävhet |
Här redovisar och presenterar vi kända vinskribenters utlåtande om specifika viner. Utöver dessa lägger vi in en egen kommentar när vi har provat samma vin.
Robert Parker Wine Advocate
[vintage 2020]
The more Bordelais of the reds is the 2020 El Espinal, pure Maturana Tinta, a.k.a. Castets, a relative of Carmenere that displays those notes of green peppers and spice that feel a bit alien here. But the wine is superb and features the high percentage of active limestone in the soil in the shape of a dry, chalky sensation, a mouthfeel, a texture rather than an aroma or flavor. It comes from one vineyard in San Vicente at 650 meters in altitude in a cold and Atlantic environment that was regrafted from Garnacha to Maturana Tinta some 25 years ago. I'd like to add it blind to a flight of Bordeaux for William Kelley! 2020 suffered a late frost, so yields were lower; 800 bottles were filled in February 2022, after 15 months in used 600-liter French oak barrels.
Exopto is the project from Frenchman Tom Puyaubert and 25% a group of friends he calls Wine Artists. He's been working a lot in the vineyards, where he started with biodynamics in 2020, but now he's not looking for new ones, but improving the ones he has. Which is not little, 10 hectares in Alfaro (in the Monte Yerga), mostly Garnacha and some Graciano, 12 hectares in Ábalos (19 plots mostly Tempranillo and some Garnacha and Graciano), 1.3 hectares in San Vicente de la Sonsierra (old Malvasía and Tempranillo) and 1.6 hectares in Baños de Ebro (a co-plantation of Tempranillo and Viura). He produces 100,000 bottles and still has time to help Mauro to start their project in Rioja. And he's thinking of finally building his own winery after 15 years paying rent...
He talks about 2020 as a tropical vintage with warm weather and heat, so ideal conditions for fungus. Mildew decimated the crop and concentrated the wines; he lost up to 70% in some plots (the price of being organic and biodynamic) and an average of 40% overall. His wines are very good, but it will be an irregular year with some diluted wines, as some vineyards delivered high yields and wines with little soul.
Like many others, he has high expectations from 2021, a dream vintage after the 2020 nightmare, balanced and healthy, with some isolated episodes of hail/torrential rain (100 liters on June 16th!) with fine and elegant wines with low pH.
2019 was very dry and resulted in an, early, easy and excellent harvest with homogeneous wines from healthy and ripe grapes but perhaps a vintage for the short and medium term? Hedonistic and juicy wines that could have more tension and complexity.
Druvor
Maturana Tinto aka Castets
Tasting note
El Espinal was the first label under Tom Puyaubert’s Colección Miguel Angel Mato. Mato, a native of San Vicente de la Sonsierra, is the seasoned grower who does all the work, cultivating by mule in some of Exopto’s principal vineyards. He also owns several old vineyards high on the slopes of the Sierra Cantabria, including El Espinal. Here, the 'pin' in the plot name Espinal references the pine trees on the exposed slopes of the Sierra Cantabria in San Vicente, which have always been a part of this high-country landscape. This site—a 0.3-hectare, limestone/clay vineyard—is planted to bush vines of the extremely rare Maturana Tinta vine, a re-emerging variety in Rioja. The Wine Grapes bible classifies it as Trousseau, although Puyaubert tells us that this is not the case and that these vines are rather Castets, a now almost extinct French variety that was once grown in some quantity in the Bordeaux area (and is related to Cabernet Franc).
Another atypical facet of this cuvée is Puyaubert’s use of Vinification Intégrale, whereby he fermented the fruit in closed, 600-litre French oak barrels, which were rolled several times a day. There were no pump overs, no pigéage, etc., just rolling (this results in infusion rather than extraction). Following fermentation and pressing, the juice was then racked back into these same casks for 15 months before bottling.
This is unlike anything you may have tasted from Rioja before. Picked a full month after Exopto’s Ábalos vineyards, the inviting dark purple, almost inky hue draws you in, before layers of complexity overflow from the glass: pure blue fruits, fennel, some spice and a peppery lift. Then you get waves of moreish mid-palate freshness, lifted chalky tannins and lip-smacking acidity. Like an outstanding Saumur yet with perhaps more flesh, it’s a superb and unique red from Rioja’s high country.
The wine team - Bodega Exopto
AT-A-GLANCE
• Frenchman Tom Puyaubert founded this Rioja estate in 2003.
• It covers 22 hectares of old bush vines spread across more than 30 plots on slopes in Rioja Alta and Rioja Oriental.
• The high-elevation sites are influenced by the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea and feature a mix of limestone, clay, sand and river rocks.
• Farming incorporates biodynamic principles, with soils ploughed by horse and yields kept low.
• Vinification occurs in cement, stainless steel tanks and large-format neutral French oak.
• Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano, Malvasía and Viura are the key varieties.
• The estate makes blended and (unusually for the region) single-vineyard wines. There is also a rosé.
IN THE PRESS
“It doesn’t take a long tradition or lots of start up capital to begin making serious Rioja wines of depth and longevity—as a small group of friends who used to play rugby together have proven over just a few years with their modest but ambitions winery, Exopto.”
Jesús Barquín, Luis Gutiérrez and Victor de la Serna, The Finest Wines of Rioja
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“Exopto is one of the consolidated new names in Rioja. Frenchman Tom Puyaubert is nowadays producing better wines than ever. Always humble and down to earth, he is focusing more and more on the vineyards (yeah!)… In the winery he is settling with 600-liter demi-muids, and the oak feels better integrated in the wines, respecting the character of the different vineyards.”
Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate
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