Domaine de Fondrèche - Il Etait Une Fois 2022

Druvor

80 % Grenache, 10% Syrah (planterad 1936) och 10 % Mourvèdre 

Tasting note

The flagship wine is the Cotes du Ventoux Il Etait Une Fois and this cuvee is always Grenache-dominated, with small amounts of Syrah and Mourvèdre. Destemmed and aged in foudre, it’s a fresh, elegant example from this vintage that gives up notes of raspberry, black raspberries (even a hint of fresh plum) to go with lots of floral characteristics, medium to full-bodied richness and ripe, polished tannin. It needs 2-3 years of bottle age and will shine over the following decade.

The wine team - Domaine de Fondrèche

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The 2022 Ventoux Il Etait Une Fois is based on 80% Grenache (planted in 1933, aged in concrete eggs and amphorae), plus 10% each Mourvèdre and Syrah (aged in new barriques). Hints of menthol lead the way on the nose, backed by scents of blueberries and blackberries, while the full-bodied palate is round, ripe and rich, with a long, velvety finish. It's a lovely Grenache-based blend capable of rivaling wines from Gigondas or Châteauneuf du Pape.

The accompanying reviews are a compilation of notes taken over the past couple of years during visits to the estate. Proprietor Sebastien Vincenti is a thoughtful, conscientious vigneron who was proud to explain that the estate has been certified organic beginning with the 2022 vintage.

Speaking of the last few vintages, Vincenti says, "For the consumer, I think 2020 and 2022 are very good—it's possible to drink [them] over a long period of time. Twenty-one is maybe better to drink earlier. I see consistent differences across the cuvées, with the difference being in the tannins."

Proponents of natural wines—or, equally, those not normally inclined to drink them—may want to check out Fondreche's Nature bottling, which uses indigenous yeasts, eschews sulfite additions and is bottled unfiltered if the microbiology allows for it. It's a charming, slurpable red that's just fun to drink. Vincenti is one of the top producers in the Ventoux and a proud partisan for the region, with enough volume to ensure decent availability in many markets. The wines are worth seeking out.

Robert Parker Wine Advocate

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• Jeb Dunnuck 96/100 Top 100 (2020), 95/100 (2018,2017), 97/100 (2016)
• The Wine Advocate 94-96/100 (2019), 92-94/100 (2018), 94/100 (2016) 
• The Wine spectator 91/100 (2018), 92/100 (2016)
• Jancis Robinson 17.5/20 (2016) by Richard Hemming
• Matt Walls 94 /100 (2016)
• Wine Enthusiast 94/100 (2018), 93/100 (2016) by Anna LEE C.IIJIMA 
• Vinum 18/20 (2016)

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