M. Chapoutier - Côte Rôtie La Mordorée 2001

Vinous

Robert Parker Wine Advocate

The deep ruby/purple-colored 2001 Cote Rotie La Mordoree is more dense, tannic, and earthy than its 2000 counterpart. Possessing additional structure as well as an undeniably backward character, this is a medium to full-bodied offering with the classic grilled meat, tapenade, herbal concoction found in many Cote Roties. With a sweet attack but a narrow finish, it should turn out to be outstanding, but it will always be less charming and accessible than the 2000. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2014.

These uncompromising offerings from a young genius are not meant for consumers who want something to drink immediately. They are the essence of bio-dynamically farmed vineyard sites cropped incredibly low, given extended fermentations with indigenous yeasts, and rarely touched until they go into the bottle unfined and unfiltered. In most vintages, the wines are not even racked off their lees, which only adds to their natural style. These are truly remarkable wines, but for most readers, patience is the operative rule as they generally need a good 8-10 years to strut their stuff.

Once moribund, over the last 12 years, this firm has become one of the reference points for nearly all the Rhone Valley appellations since the brash yet immensely talented Michel Chapoutier took over in the late eighties. The single vineyard offerings are as good as Rhone Valley wines can be. Moreover, Chapoutier continues to upgrade the quality of those wines offered in more significant quantities than the 500 or so cases each of the single vineyard offerings.

La Revue du Vin de France