Decanter

100% Pinot Noir from Grand Cru villages Verzenay (51%), Aÿ (25%) and the rest from Louvois, Mareuil and Avenay. The bouquet is compellingly fresh and minty, complicated by notes of white fruit - notably pear and apple – and gentle spices, as well as a light touch of citrus. With aeration, elegant pastry notes come to the fore. On the palate, this is a structured, tension-filled but airborne Champagne with high acidity - a sign of the cool 2018 vintage. Although already thoroughly enjoyable, it should age well over the next 10 years. Dosage 6g/L.

James Suckling

For an 8-year-old champagne this is extremely vibrant, the red-fruit character from the pinot noir grape rather in the background. Quite a strict style with discreet lees creaminess. However the ripeness and power means that it isn’t austere. Feels bone-dry at the powerful, chalky finish. 100% pinot noir, 100% barrel-fermented and 100% matured under cork. Disgorged in March 2021.

The Real Review

A 100% pinot noir from the pinot masters, Bollinger. It’s 92% grand cru vineyards, all on the Montagne de Reims, a one-off as a result of the unique and difficult 2013 season of snow and frost, a wet spring and a scorching, stormy summer. There’s a reserved bouquet of toasted and fresh bread, nuts, dried fruits and a trace of sherry flor, appropriately subtle. In the mouth, it’s very dry and savoury as well as rich and profound, the flavour lasting long on a harmonious finish. It’s very intense but not too weighty. There is elegance and finesse, the aftertaste very dry and quite exquisite.

Falstaff

Adrian van Velsen - vvWine.ch