Bollinger

OMDÖME FRÅN CHAMPAGNE CLUB by RICHARD JUHLIN

★★★★★ av ★★★★★

Joseph Bollinger hette tysken från Würtemberg som grundade detta anrika hus 1829. Fransmännen kallade honom för Jacques. Firmans stora arealer i de bästa pinotbyarna köptes av hans söner Georges och Joseph. 1918 var det dags för nästa Jacques att ta över egendomen. Han blev borgmästare i Aÿ, men dog under den tyska ockupationen 47 år gammal.

Den färgstarkaste personen i husets historia är hans änka Lily Bollinger, som från sin cykel höll ett vakande öga på varenda vinklase. Hennes rigorösa kvalitetssträvanden präglar fortfarande huset. I dag drivs Bollinger av Charles-Armand de Belenet som förfogar över 178 hektar, varav 104 planterade med pinot noir, från den berömda 386 Selection Massalle planterad av huset på 20-talet, vilket täcker 70 % av druvbehovet.

Dagens vinmakare är mästerlige Denis Bunner. Förutom husets exceptionella vingårdar, använder man också kostsamma vinifikationsmetoder. Alla årgångsviner jäser på små åldrade ekfat och filtreras aldrig. Man uppmuntrar inte den malolaktiska jäsningen som antagligen ändå inträffar rätt så sent i processen. Reservvinerna lagras under svagt tryck på magnumbuteljer. Bollinger gör den tyngsta och fylligaste champagnen av alla hus. Deras viner har alltid en rökig och hasselnötsdoftande komplexitet som är svårslagen. La Grande Année och R.D samt nya PN tillhör de bästa i området och det fantastiskt sällsynta vinet Vieilles Vignes Françaises, gjort på druvor från oympade pinotstockar, når faktiskt ännu högre höjder. Samtliga viner rekommenderas varmt. Ett perfekt champagnehus i sin stil och en underbar gåva till mänskligheten.

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Bollinger - 1829 - An adventurous aristocrat and two experts in wine

The story began with Athanase de Villermont, son of a noble family, who inherited an extensive estate the Aÿ area. He foresaw the potential of the wines of Champagne, but as an aristocrat he was forbidden to become involved in trade. He then met Joseph Bollinger, a widely travelled German who had left his country to learn about the Champagne wine trade, and Paul Renaudin, a local man who was fascinated by the world of wine. The firm of Renaudin-Bollinger & Cie was founded in Febuary 1829.

In 1837 Joseph Bollinger married the daughter of Athanase, and in time their sons, Joseph and then Georges, took over the business. Despite challenges, as the phylloxera crisis to the turmoil of the Great War, they extended its vineyards considerably. 

In 1920 Jacques Bollinger, son of Georges, found himself at the helm of the House: a weighty burden for a 24-year old. He faced the challenge with courage, aided by his cousins Pierre and then Yves Moret de Rocheprise; for the strength of Bollinger also lies in its powerful family ties. 

in 1923 Jacques married Elisabeth Bollinger, who became passionately involved with the House’s destiny. She lost her husband at 42 and, without hesitation, took the responsibility of the House.

With her customary common sense, Madame Bollinger gathered those in the family who were most able to follow in her footsteps. Firstly she taught Claude d’Hautefeuille, her niece’s husband, and 1950 he became a Director, who launched an ambitious modernisation programme whilst respecting Bollinger’s quality requirements. Madame Bollinger appointed him Chairman in 1971 but remained closely involved until her death six years later.

Madame Bollinger’s nephew, Christian Bizot, took over from Claude in 1978. A great traveller, like his Aunt Lily before him he made a point of meeting with sommeliers, restaurant owners and wine merchants to promote the House’s wines. A great Chairman, he was well known for his outspokenness and informality.

In 1994 Joseph Bollinger’s great-great-grandson Ghislain de Montgolfier became head of the House. He continues to maintain a policy of voluntarily limiting amounts produced to increase quality, while remaining true to the Bollinger spirit. In 2007 his technical expertise led him to be elected as head of the Board of the Union des Maisons de Champagne and co-chairman of the Comité Champagne.

In 2008, for the first time in its history, the House placed its future into the care of a Chairman who was not a family member. Their choice fell on Jérôme Philipon, originally from the Champagne region, who had led an impressive career with large industrial groups. The choice might be unexpected - but Bollinger has never hesitated to reject conformity for the good of the House and its wines! With the Bollinger family’s support, Jérôme Philipon has extended his predecessor’s programme of modernisation and investment. With him, the House has continued to preserve its traditional expertise while incorporating the best of new technologies for the future development of the brand, both in terms of quality and commercial growth.