Inglenook - Rubicon 2022

The 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon Rubicon is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. It's turned out to be a more red-fruited year, with notes of cherries and redcurrants accented by cedar, dusty earth and some tarry, reductive notes (decant for a couple of hours if opening one in the next couple of years). In the mouth, it's medium- to full-bodied and on the leaner side, with silky tannins and a bright, fresh, lingering finish.

Francis Ford Coppola's palatial wine estate is a reminder of Napa Valley's first golden age, yet the property has been updated in nearly every way imaginable. Replanting to replaced virused vines continues apace, phased in so as to not unduly disrupt production. The new cave-winery was completed in time for the 2022 harvest, which started September 1 and wrapped up by the end of the month. Some of the vineyard blocks have overhead sprinklers—primarily for frost protection, but they were pressed into service to moderate temperatures—and harvesting continued right through the heat.

During our tasting at the estate, winemaker Jonathan Tyer compared the two main red wines: "Rubicon is the best expression of the Rutherford Bench—behind the house—while the Cab is the best expression of the entire estate. Rubicon tends to be extremely refined and balanced—density and structure but still elegance and balance. The Cab, once you start blending in the heavier soils, the wines tend to be more powerful and the tannins are more coarse."

The samples of the 2023 wines—expected to be bottled in May 2025—were even more impressive. Following a cold, wet winter and a late bud break, harvest started October 3 and finished October 25, the latest Tyer has seen at the property. "It was perfect," he said. "We had a nice, long growing season." Tyer is also enthusiastic about the 2024s. 

Although produced in smaller volumes, don't overlook the white wines here. The Sauvignon Blanc comes from the front of property, the rows closest to Highway 29. Planted in 2011 to six different clones, Tyer is partial to Clone 530, which he says is bright and tropical, while still holding on to its acidity. The Rhône whites for Blancaneaux—Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne—are grown in hillier western sections of the property. 

Only light press goes into the white wines, with Tyer and his team carefully watching pH and phenolics at pressing. Fermentation and maturation is in a mix of oak puncheons and stainless steel drums, with about 25% new French oak for Blancaneaux and only 18% for the Sauvignon Blanc. The whites then spend six to eight months on the lees, building texture to balance the crisp, natural acidity.