Paul Lato - 'Ma Jolie' Peake Ranch Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

The 2022 Chardonnay Ma Jolie Peake Ranch Vineyard is a beautiful expression of this vineyard site, offering another level of depth and completeness from this relatively young site. The nose offers contemporary aromas of matchstick, candlewax and orchard fruits accented with lifted saline touches. The palate is quintessential Paul Lato, balancing glossy polish with focused charm and, in this case, an additional dose of verve. The finish balances toasty, creamy power with lifted, chalky acidity.

If you're fortunate enough to have a tasting with the gregarious and eminently entertaining Paul Lato, be sure to leave yourself plenty of time before your next appointment, as your conversations will likely be numerous and wide-ranging. Lato's evolution is as inspiring as it is impressive, from humble beginnings to subsequent progression from sommelier to winemaker. Given the lavish textures on display throughout his work, one could be forgiven for describing his roster as quite stylistic, but that would be a disservice; Lato accomplishes the rare feat of transparently expressing vineyards yet doing so with an indelible fingerprint, a touch that is, in this case, confidently luxurious and manages to enhance the wines rather than muddle them. Production now occurs at the former Byron facility, where obsessive sorting, destemming, basket pressing and extended time in the finest barrels he can buy contribute to producing the multifaceted, sumptuous and classy offerings on display.