Leeuwin Estate - Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

The Wine Front

Robert Parker Wine Advocate

The 2019 Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon has admirable fruit presence in the mouth. As an immediate follow on from the great 2018 vintage, the 2019 vintage was cooler and wetter, but the average quality across the region was excellent. In many corners, the quality is argued as being on par with the 2019; it comes down to a matter of preference. Here, the wine is elegant and fine, very aromatic. It's an excellent wine and a clear statement about the direction and refinement of the Cabernet program at Leeuwin.

The release of the Art Series Chardonnay (in this case, the 2020 vintage) is tasted in this manner at the estate each year prior to vintage. This year, in 2023, we consider three verticals: Art Series Chardonnay 2020–1982, Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2019–2005 and the Art Series Shiraz 2011– 2021. In attendance at the tasting were siblings Justin and Simone Horgan (joint directors of the estate), winemakers Tim Lovett and Phil Hutchinson and estate viticulturist David Winstanley. As is usual for the wines from these vintages, the 2014 and 2018 Cabernets from Leeuwin Estate were standouts in this vertical. So, too, the cooler 2019 vintage. 2018 and 2019 are an interesting pair to compare, as I am reminded time and time again of their differences in style and personality now that they have settled in bottle. The two vintages were really quite different in conditions, and that, pleasingly, has yielded two very different wines in the glass. Personally, I have a penchant for the power and grace of the 2018; however, the aromatic detail and black heart of the 2019s is just as attractive, on different days of the week. No right or wrong. Just different. Though known for the Art Series Chardonnay, and for good reason, the quality of the Cabernets increases with every year that goes by (we can look to vine age, refinement of style, etc.). In terms of vintages to come, there is the warm and low-yielding 2020, the moderate but wet 2021 vintage, the warm and dry (and by all accounts and according to my 80+ barrel tastings) excellent 2022 and the cool, long, moderate and super fine 2023. Exciting times ahead for this region, and indeed, Leeuwin Estate.

James Suckling

This cuvee has improved with global warming, promoting better ripening patterns in Margaret River’s southern sector where this address lies. Still, elements of pimento and verdant garden herbs are slotted in amidst aromas of red and blackcurrant, lilac, sage, black olive and thyme. There is much to love about this wine, almost resembling a riper Loire franc. While the astringent gristle should tone with bottle age, I am tasting what’s in front of me. This should age reasonably well, even if rather green as it stands. Drinkable now, but best from 2026. Screw cap.

Jane Anson - Inside Bordeaux

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Winepilot

Just as the Art Series Chardonnay has Block 20 as its heart, the Art Series Cabernet relies on Block 8. Go back to the early days and it is fair to say the Cabernet struggled to garner the accolades which were showered upon the Chardonnay. No longer. This is now (another) jewel in their crown. Dark maroon hue. The aromas include black fruits, tobacco leaves, chocolate, coffee beans, blackberries, cassis, delicatessen meats and leather. Utterly alluring and this persists on the palate with mouthpuckering tannins on a very long finish. The oak is perfectly melded. This has at least ten to twelve years ahead of it and the score should go higher, perhaps considerably higher, over that period. So much to like here – this sits comfortably with the top examples from the region.

Decanter Magazine

From a slightly cooler season for reds, this is showing beautiful elegance, lifted aromatics, a corseted structure and fine, al dente tannins. There is plenty of detail here, with layers of perfumed and engaging cassis, white spice, cardamom, aniseed and a pinch of musk lolly. Noticeable rigidity plays in its favour, with the red fruit strap and savoury hues of salted plum and sundried tomato skin underpinned by an earthy salinity and graphite thread. Long and sinewy, it keeps flexing its sense of intrigue and complexity as it receives more time in the glass.